Pillowcase Dress Tutorial - Dress A Girl Around the World Sew-A-Long


Hello! Ready to sew? I've come up with a tutorial and pattern for my favorite version of the super easy and very popular pillowcase dress for the Dress A Girl Around the World Sew-A-Long. I threw in a few variations for good measure. You can find the printable pattern here. The pattern and instructions will produce a dress that will fit girls of varying sizes and ages. It is approximately 22 inches long (from neck casing to hem) and can easily be lengthened or shortened.




A few notes about the printable pattern:

  • make sure to set your printer to 'landscape' mode ( I designed the pattern to use as little paper as possible!)
  • make sure to choose 'scaling none'
  • when you've printed the pattern, check that the square box measures and inch. if so, you are in business.
  • line the printed pages up edge to edge and tape. do not overlap pages.

Download and print pattern HERE.

    Here's what is should look like when taped together:



    Supplies needed:


    • approximately 3/4 yard fabric*
    • an additional 1/2 yard if you'd like to add a contrasting band with matching arm hole binding and fabric tie
    • 1 package 1/2 inch double fold bias tape (if making elastic casing dress)
    • 1/2 inch wide elastic (if making elastic casing dress
    • coordinating thread
    • steam iron/ironing board
    • scissors
    • pins
    • safety pins
    • hem gauge
    • seam ripper
    • rotary cutter, ruler and mat (if making your own bias tape)
    *make sure to use lightweight (but not sheer) fabrics. You'll also want to pre-wash your fabric and press before getting started.


    Let's begin, shall we?
    (make sure to read through the entire tutorial before beginning!)


    1. Take your fabric, fold in the sides (selvage to selvage) to meet in the middle. Place pattern on one side, with the straight edge of your pattern piece aligned with the fold. Pin in place and cut.




    2. Take your pattern, flip it over, and place it on the opposite side, straight edge aligned with the fold. Pin in place and cut.

    3. Take your dress pieces and place them right side down. Fold the fabric  ¼” along the hem line and press. Fold up ¾” and press. Once you have your hem creases, unfold. This will make it much easier to hem your dress later!

    **If making a dress with a contrasting band on the bottom, you'll need to attach the contrast band pieces to your dress pieces before hemming. Place the bands along the bottom of the front and back of the dress, right sides touching, and pin. Sew together using a 1/4" seam allowance. Finish the seam by serging, pinking, or zig zag stitching. Press the seam towards the top of the dress. Turn your dress pieces right side up and top stitch along the seams you just created. Now press your hem creases as described above!**




    4. Next, we'll create the casing for the elastic. *If making a dress with a fabric tie casing (one long fabric tie that ties in a bow on one shoulder), skip down to step 5.


    Instructions for the elastic casing
    Fold the fabric down ¼” at the top of the dress and press. Fold down ¾ of an inch and press. Stitch about 1/8th inch from the bottom and top edges of the casing you created. Press casing. Do this for both the front and back of the dress.



    *tip for beginner's: I like to line up an edge (inner or outer depending on what I'm sewing) of my presser foot with the edge of the casing/hem. Then, I move the needle position close to the edge of the casing/hem. This helps to give you a nice, straight line of stitching. In the photo, I lined up the left inner edge of my presser foot against the folded edge of my casing. I moved my needle towards the right.


    Next, cut 2 pieces of 6.5” of ½” elastic and attach safety pins to both ends. Feed the elastic through the casing and pin.  Remove safety pins and sew the elastic in place at both ends of the casing. Repeat for other side of dress.



    5. Now you’ll sew the side seams of your dress. Place one dress piece on top of the other, right sides facing, and pin together along the side seams, starting at the bottom of the arm hole and ending at the bottom of the dress. Use a ¼” seam allowance. Make sure to backstitch at the beginning and end of your seam.You'll need to finish your seams by serging, pinking, or zig zag stitching. Press the seams when finished.


    **If you'd like to make a dress with a fabric tie casing, skip down to the bottom of this tutorial!**


    6. Next, grab your package of bias tape and cut two pieces about 46-48 inches long. Take one piece, unfold it, find the mid point and mark it. Match the mid point of the bias tape (right sides touching) to  the seam of one of the arm holes. Finish pinning the bias tape to the entire arm hole. Sew just inside the crease of the bias tape, from one end of the arm hole to the other. Do the same for the other arm hole.




    Now, fold the bias tape over to the inside of the arm hole and press. Place a few pins along the entire length of the bias tape, especially along the arm hole. Place one end of the bias tape under your presser foot and sew close to the open edge for the entire length of it, from one end to the other, making sure to catch the back of the tape along the arm hole.





    7. Next, fold the hem up along the creases you created earlier. Press and then pin in place. Sew near the edge of the hem all the way around the bottom of the dress, overlapping your stitches a bit. Press the hem and then turn your dress right side out. You're all finished! Grab some more fabric and whip up some more dresses :)


    **Instructions for the fabric tie casing dress**
    Cut 2 strips of bias tape 2" wide and 13" long. To make your own bias tape , use the 45 degree marking on your cutting mat as a guide. Line the left edge of your fabric piece with a vertical line on your mat. Place your ruler along the 45 degree line and cut. Once you've made a cut on the bias, turn the fabric so the cut edge of your fabric is parallel to the vertical lines on your cutting mat. Cut (2) 2" strips. Fold the strips in half lengthwise and press. Open back up and fold both sides in towards the middle, then fold in half. Press with iron.




    Let's attach the bias tape to the arm holes. Take one piece, unfold it, find the mid point and mark it. Match the mid point of the bias tape (right sides touching) to  the seam of one of the arm holes. Finish pinning the bias tape to the entire arm hole. Sew just inside the crease of the bias tape, from one end of the arm hole to the other. Do the same for the other arm hole.




    Now, fold the bias tape over to the inside of the arm hole and press. Place a few pins along the entire length of the bias tape. Place one end of the bias tape under your presser foot and sew close to the open edge for the entire length of it, from one end to the other, making sure to catch the back of the tape along the arm hole.




    Now, fold the fabric down ¼” at the top of the dress and press. Fold down 1” and press. Sew a long the bottom edge of the casing only. Basically, it's the same as the elastic casing but wider! See photos in step 4a you need to. Do this for both the front and back of the dress.



    Almost finished! You'll need to make a fabric tie to feed through the casing. I don't have photos of this step but it's really simple! Cut a strip of fabric about 64" long and 2.5" wide. Fold in 1/4" along all four edges of the strip and press. Fold the fabric in half, wrong sides touching, and press. Sew along all 4 edges of the tie. Now, attach a safety pin to one end of the tie and pull through the front casing and then the back. Even up the ties and then tie a nice bow on one side. Go back up to step 7 (hemming) and finish up your dress!!


    I hope you've found this tutorial helpful! If you have any questions, feel free to post them in comments below (add your email address to your comment if it is not linked to your blogger account) or email me directly at sevan76dress (at) gmail (dot) com. Happy sewing!!!

    163 comments

    1. I have a question--you say "take your 2 pieces of bias tape" but we only need one pack...so I'm guessing we cut it in half, one for each side? (for the elastic casing dress).

      ReplyDelete
    2. Fixed! Thanks :) If anyone else notices something that doesn't quite make sense, let me know! I was up late writing the tutorial so there *may* be some errors.

      ReplyDelete
    3. Thank you so much for the tutorial.
      This will totally be fun!

      ReplyDelete
    4. 3 dresses nearly finished and just trying to blag some free fabric to make some more! It's amazing what I can do even with 2 small children at home and one of them is sick!

      ReplyDelete
    5. Hi Vanessa, I've followed the tutorial for elastic casing and it all seemed fine to me, 3 dresses finished and 2 offers of free fabric for more! Yippee I am having so much fun (and my children and house are neglected!)

      ReplyDelete
    6. Do you mind if I share about this project on my blog? I already added the button.

      ReplyDelete
    7. Hi Vanessa
      Am just reading tutorial for fabric tie and not sure if it's right:
      'Fold in 1/4" along all four edges of the strip and press. Fold the fabric in half, right sides touching, and press. Sew along all 4 edges of the tie.'
      Should the wrong side be touching rather than right sides?
      I'm tired and confused...
      Maryx

      ReplyDelete
    8. Hi all! As Mary pointed out, there was an error in the fabric tie part of the tutorial. I have corrected it above and will mention it here also:

      The fabric should be folded in half, wrong sides touching!

      Thanks!

      ReplyDelete
    9. Ok, this is the first time I have done this so don;t laugh lol.

      When you say finish the edges by pinking are you referring to pinking cut? So I would either do that or zig zag since I do not have a seger, right?

      ReplyDelete
    10. May I translate this to Dutch so my Dutch readers who's English is not so good can join?

      ReplyDelete
    11. Hi Vanessa,

      I recently came across your pillowcase dress tutorial and want to make one for my daughter. I am relatively new to sewing and so need your advice on how to scale the pattern up for a 6 year old. I'm assuming that it's not as straight forward as just lengthening the dress as of course they get bigger all over. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

      Thanks

      ReplyDelete
    12. @Kristen

      Hope I can help! For the most part, it will be mostly lengthening. The dress is already pretty wide, so you won't have to add too much to the width. Kids tend to grow in length more than they grow in width.

      Measure your daughter from about her collar bone to where you want the hem to fall. Add the difference in length to the pattern. I'd take a piece of newspaper or two, lay the printed pattern on top of it, tape in place, and use it to draw your new pattern on the paper below. To add the length, line a ruler up with the diagonal edge of the pattern, and with your pencil, extend the line to the length you need. Then you can draw the bottom of the dress with your ruler.

      To add some width, I would measure out about an inch or so from the the straight edge of the pattern (the part that would go on the fold). Then draw your new dress edge.

      Finally, if you think the arm holes need to be a bit bigger, I'd add maybe 1/2" to 3/4" to the top of the pattern (what will become the neck casing).

      Hope that makes sense! My coffee hasn't kicked in yet and I'm no expert in pattern drafting or grading.

      Also, there's this size chart you can use if you want to create your dress using rectangles vs my pattern!

      ReplyDelete
    13. UGHH! Great tutorial- I promise its just me,but EVERY dress,etc I do I have probs on the middle of the armhole with bias tape. It puckers but not the same way on each side. Any fab tricks for me??
      Thank u soooo much!
      Tiffany

      sway976@msn.com

      ReplyDelete
    14. Thank you so much! I'm a very average sewer.. but I think I might just be able to cope with this! Cheers!

      ReplyDelete
    15. It is a great dress. I already have one. Thanks to your tutorial :)
      Thanks a lot.
      Magda

      ReplyDelete
    16. New follower here. I saw you at MommyDigger. I am so excited to get started on one of these dresses. Your tutorial looks great! Thanks

      ReplyDelete
    17. thanks for a fantastic tutorial! i made one here:

      http://wifemomwoman.wordpress.com/2011/07/04/the-adeline/

      and i picked up some cute fabric to make some more for my girls! i've looked for a great pillowcase dress tutorial for a while, and i just love yours. thanks!

      ReplyDelete
    18. What a great tutorial..thanks for sharing!!! I can't wait to make my little girl this!

      ReplyDelete
    19. Wow, thank you for this amazing tutorial!!!! I haven't made a pillowcase dress before now, and I LOVED your instructions. I used them to create my strawberry sun dress. Find it here: http://sunscholars.blogspot.com/2011/07/strawberry-pillowcase-dress.html

      ... with a link back to you! :)

      ReplyDelete
    20. This is a great tutorial! These dresses were the 2nd piece of clothing I've made! The first was a ruffled dress for my twins for Easter (it was a really hard pattern to start with! & I needed a lot of help from my mom). These dresses I was able to do all on my own! They are for their 2nd birthday in a week and are adorable! Thanks so much!

      ReplyDelete
    21. One quick word of caution from a quilter....bias tape in a package often shrinks a LOT more than quality cotton fabric, so I'd preshrink or make my own....just so you don't end up with puckered arm holes!
      HTH!

      ReplyDelete
    22. I made pillowcase dresses for my daughters using your instructions with some variations. You can check out how they turned out if you want. : ) I linked to you in my post. Thanks for the tutorial!!!
      http://jennisrandomramblings.blogspot.com/2011/08/pillowcase-dresses.html

      ReplyDelete
    23. Great tutorial! Quick question...I printed out the pdf and taped it together. Is the outer side of the pattern supposed to be at a slant? I wasn't sure if I didn't line it up correctly :-)

      ReplyDelete
    24. Rachael-yep, the right side of the pattern has a bit of a slant to it-makes the dress somewhat a-lined, if that makes sense!

      ReplyDelete
    25. Makes perfect sense! Sorry if that was a dumb question, I am such a beginner. Thanks so much! I am washing my fabric now :-)

      ReplyDelete
    26. Thanks a bunch. I added a pocket on the chest as my daughter needs a place to collect her rocks. Turned out great thanks to your tutorial!

      ReplyDelete
    27. Thanks so much. I'm making dresses for Dress a Girl Australia. This is just what I need.

      ReplyDelete
    28. This is great, thanks so much for the tutorial. Am inspired to sew again for the Dress A Girl project & happy to have found your great blog as well.

      ReplyDelete
    29. Thanks for this tutorial I adapted it and embellished it and am still working on all the fine details for my daughters doll then I will be putting one together in her size. I used satin and it was a pain to work with but the ruffle and everything else turned out so pretty now I want one for me!http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10150612993562392

      ReplyDelete
    30. Hi, I can't seem to download the pattern, I want to make these for the Dress a Girl project. When I click on the top pair of links it takes me to a page with just links on. When I click on the bottom pair it gives me files to download, but then when I got to open them it says the files were broken. Help! :(

      ReplyDelete
    31. I'm a beginning sewer, and I've never sewn a garment before. So I'm sorry if this is a silly question. But can you give me an idea of what size this dress pattern makes? I'm trying to make a dress for an 18 month old, and not sure how much to size it down. Thanks!!

      ReplyDelete
    32. Erin - check out my reply to Kristen above (comment #12) - I listed some tips for resizing and also linked to a chart with measurements, etc. On the chart, you could use the Size 1 measurements...that should fit 18 mths. :)

      ReplyDelete
    33. I just made this dress using your tutorial and it turned out great! I love it! Thank you so so so much!

      ReplyDelete
    34. Hi Vanessa
      Is there anyway you can produce a printable version of the tutorial. I have a couple of friend who would like to make dresses for third world groups, but they neither of them have computers. Also I have to put my computer away to get the sewing machine out, so a printable version would be good.
      Chris

      ReplyDelete
    35. Mrs. D....hope you see this. I'm not able to email you because your email addy isn't linked in your profile. I will see what I can do over the weekend and will post a link above if I can get something printable put together for download.

      ReplyDelete
    36. Did I miss a step? I was reading through on the elastic casing dress, and I don't see where you added the shoulder ties. I see where you sewed the elastic in at the top, then added the bias to the arm holes, but then there is no mention of ties... Help!?

      ReplyDelete
    37. Never mind: I'm a dork. I see now, you used the bias tape as the ties, and just kept stitching... Ignore me! LOL!

      ReplyDelete
    38. No worries, Amanda! Glad you got it sorted out :)

      ReplyDelete
    39. I'm wanting to make the dress for a 6 month old. How should I scale it down? Can I just scale down the pdf? If so, how much?

      ReplyDelete
    40. Christie,

      Check out comment #12! Also, here's a tutorial for a size 6 mths dress:

      http://prudentbaby.com/2010/03/baby-kid/diy-pillowcase-baby-dress-pattern-2/

      ReplyDelete
    41. I LOVE your pattern!! Thank you so much for sharing it! I've never made a dress before thinking it would be to hard but this tutorial restored some faith in myself! I just made one to fit my 1 year old and now on to the matching one for my 4 year old!!! Once again thanks so much!!

      ReplyDelete
    42. @ The Heiner's

      Thank you! Glad you enjoyed it :)

      ReplyDelete
    43. Just Made this for my little 3 yr old girl and with a matching headband/Bow! She loves it. I espessialy appreciate your info on making your own bias tape it was fab! Thanks!

      ReplyDelete
    44. Do you allow fellow crafters to sell dresses made from this pattern? Just wondering =) This is by far my favorite pillowcase dress!

      ReplyDelete
    45. @Carrie - Sure :) And thank you for asking-I really appreciate it!

      ReplyDelete
    46. Thank you so much for this tutorial. I made two of these for my girls for Easter in less than two hours! Love them! I gave you a shout out on my blog and would love for you to visit! http://prairiescraps.blogspot.com

      ReplyDelete
    47. I simplified your pattern slightly, and was able to help my 2nd grade class (and our "big sisters", the sophomores) make 6 of these great dresses for needy little girls! Thanks for a fantastic tutorial.

      ReplyDelete
      Replies
      1. Bridget, would you mind sharing how you simplified it? Might help someone else. Thank you.
        April williams6650@bellsouth.net

        Delete
    48. @bridget - sounds like a lot of fun and I bet the girls were so proud of the dresses they made!

      ReplyDelete
    49. I simply love your tutorial but unfortunately I am unable to print the pattern ):is there any other way I can get the pattern. I would love to make this my weekend project.

      ReplyDelete
    50. @ Taisha ...if you'll send me your email address I can send the file directly to you :)

      sevan76dress {at} gmail {dot} com

      ReplyDelete
    51. Hi,I am new at sewing.what size is little girl is this pattern for and how would I adjust it for a 8 and a 11 year old THank you!!!Amy THomas!!

      ReplyDelete
    52. @amy thomas - hey, I can't find any email address for you to reply directly. sorry! anyways, if you'll look through the comments above, you'll find the info/links you're looking for :)

      ReplyDelete
    53. Vanessa If you were here I'd give you a big hug! I am so thankful for your great tutorial! I haven't had my machine out in years and now have made 4 dresses in 8 hours and have 4 more to go! Who know's where this will take me. Thank you very much!! These dresses look so good and will make 8 little girls very happy!

      ReplyDelete
    54. Thank you all the way from Singapore! I'm a new sewer and I handsew clothes for my little girl. Your tutorial is by far the clearest and simplest to understand. I made the elastic casing version but may pluck up some guts to cut my own bias fabric for the other version!

      ReplyDelete
    55. Thank you so much for your tutorial and photos. I was able to make a beautiful dress very quickly for my oldest daughter and will be making another one shortly for my other two daughters. LOVE how easy it was to follow your instructions and how well you described each of the steps.

      I found you through Pinterest :)

      Thanks again!

      ReplyDelete
    56. Hi there.Thanks for the wonderful tutorial. My daughter told me she wanted to make a dress and thankfully google led me to your site. The instructions were easy to follow and she loves her dress. I blogged about it here marshasefcikinteriors.ca

      ReplyDelete
    57. Just wanted to say thank you for posting this! I made my first-ever dress for my daughter, and a mini one for her doll. They came out wonderfully!

      ReplyDelete
    58. very nice thank you so much
      http://sewingbreakdown.blogspot.com/

      ReplyDelete
    59. ciao sono federica. questo vestitino è proprio quello che cercavo per fare un prendisole veloce veloce a mia figlia! grazie per il tuo splendido lavoro! saluti

      ReplyDelete
    60. Is there a size thst is most needed ehen donating to Dress A Girl Around The World? (pamkozel@aol.com)

      ReplyDelete
    61. how would i scale this pattern down for a 9-12 month size? and what size is this pattern for?

      ReplyDelete
    62. @little things for little ones

      if you'll look through the comments you'll find some tips for resizing the pattern as well as links to alternate patterns :)

      this pattern will fit probably 3T-5T and can easily fit other sizes if you simply shorten or length the pattern

      ReplyDelete
    63. It's just gone 11pm, just finished this and am quite chuffed with myself :D
      Going to try this on my little one tomorrow, buy some more material and bias tape and make some more. Thank you so much. The tutorial is very clear, even for a beginner who hasn't been near a sewing machine since 1988!!!!!

      ReplyDelete
    64. Any tips on where to find such cute pillow cases? Can't wait to give this a try!

      ReplyDelete
    65. @Melissa Anne - I used fabric yardage instead of pillowcases. I have tons of fabric sitting around so that's what I used. Target or TJMaxx probably have some cute pillowcases though! That or look for vintage pillowcases at the thrift store :)

      ReplyDelete
    66. This is awesome! I have 5 little granddaughters that these would be adorable on. But, I'm having the same problem trying to download the pattern. Would you mind sending me the file as well? If it's not a problem. here is my email addy: gma.janine@gmail.com

      Thx so much. Sincerely Janine T

      ReplyDelete
    67. Nice blog i like all post of this blog thanks for share.
      Little Girl's Dresses

      ReplyDelete
    68. Hi, this is going to be my first project and I was planning on just folding the fabric for my arm holes over and sewing to keep it all the same fabric so no bias tape or contrasting fabric. So when should I do the step of folding over my arm holes and sewing? Thanks

      ReplyDelete
    69. @bitofhoney - sorry, but I can't email you directly so hopefully you'll see my reply :) I'm thinking you can just follow the same steps for making the dress in my tutorial but hem your arm holes instead of applying bias tape when you get to that step. I would probably cut the arm holes smaller though since by folding them down you'll be making them larger.

      ReplyDelete
    70. Hi, thanks for your answer. So would I sew my armholes before my sides or after? Or at the same time? Thanks :)

      ReplyDelete
    71. @bitofhoney

      yes, you'd want to sew up the sides of the dress first so you'll have armholes. then hem the armholes and then you can continue on with the neckline casings, etc :)

      ReplyDelete
    72. Maybe I'm just misunderstanding what I read or maybe I have just had the wrong idea about a "pillowcase" dress all along. Your first photo is showing two pieces of fabric which you cut both of and so on and so forth...if your actually using a pillowcase wouldn't you only need to cut out arm holes and a neck hole?? Maybe that is what your meaning when you say your turning the patter over to the side; but I also noticed where your having the back side of your fabric facing up....like I said, I'm sure I'm just misunderstanding but could you clarify for me please? Thanks

      ReplyDelete
    73. @Brittany Folsom

      Sorry, you don't have an email address linked to your profile so I can't reply directly. Yes, a traditional pillowcase dress is made with pillowcases. However, since this sew-a-long was geared towards sewists, who for the most part have large fabric stashes; I created a pillowcase "style" template/tutorial that would utilize fabric yardage. So, yes, in the tutorial you are seeing fabric vs pillowcases and therefore the instructions are geared for that. If you'd prefer to use pillowcases, I'm sure you'll find a ton of tutorials for that available! Hope that helps :)

      ReplyDelete
    74. Thanks for the great post on your blog, it really gives me an insight on this topic.

      ReplyDelete
    75. This comment has been removed by a blog administrator.

      ReplyDelete
    76. Just have loved doing this dress. My 7 year old would like one. How do I go about enlargering the pattern? Thank You Vicky

      ReplyDelete
      Replies
      1. Vic, if you'll read through the comments you'll find lots of tips/links for resizing the pattern! Although since kids tend to grow up and not out, you probably just need to lengthen the pattern a bit.

        Delete
    77. Thanks. I made 2 from your pattern and tutorial. Here they are: http://www.craftsy.com/project/view/pillow-case-dress/76125

      ReplyDelete
    78. Thank you for the free pattern. I am
      making dresses for a mission in Africa this
      time. Pattern is easy to print, assemble,
      and the directions easy to follow.
      Pat Mata

      ReplyDelete
    79. Thank you for the free pattern. I am
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      Pat Mata

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    142. Making a dress with a differentiating band on the base, you'll have to append the complexity band pieces to your dress pieces before stitching. Place the groups along the base of the front and back of the dress, right sides touching, and stick. Sew together go here.

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    148. Parabéns pelo tutorial! As fotos são autoexplicativas!Amei! Muito obrigada! Deus lhe retribua com tudo de bom que você desejar!

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    149. Hello, I don't make little girls things but wanted to tell you how clever you think to use craft tools for other things, I have paper crafted for years before I started sewing again, I would never have thought to use my card cutter rule for sewing, I will use it all the time now for a measure and also a guide for my rotary cutter, I bought an expensive one, the first time then took the side of finger off including half my nail, I've never used it since but thanks to you, you clever girl I will start to use it again. I have just found your site on a link, so glad I did and will continue to pop in.
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    150. Thank you! This is the easiest pattern I've found on line with no adjustments. Simple directions. I'm ready to outfit my four granddaughters.

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    151. Thanks for the pattern. I've made the dress with the fabric tie. My tie keeps curling when I pull it to cinch in front and back. Should I worry about that? Any tips to prevent it happening? Thanks again.

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